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Tucked away in the north east of Italy, the Aosta Valley is not one of the country’s best-known cycling destinations—but as our recent visit revealed, it should be. It might not have the manufacturing heritage of Treviso or Milan (home to Pinarello and Bianchi, respectively) but this mountainous area boasts some of the best cycling terrain in Italy, if not in the whole of Europe.
Flanked by Monte Bianco (aka Mont Blanc) to the west, the Matterhorn to the north, and Gran Paradiso to the south, this semi-autonomous region is surrounded by 4,000m peaks, and regularly features in the Giro d’Italia.
“Fun fact: The first-ever winner of the Tour de France was born in the Aosta Valley”
For road cyclists, the hairpins which snake up towards the ski resorts at their base—Courmayeur, Cervinia, Cogne—are a fever dream of potential. For downhill mountain bikers, their lifts provide endless possibilities. And if, like me, you want fancy dabbling in e-mountain biking, the 5,000+ kilometres of trails which criss-cross the region mean the possibilities are almost endless.
We loved Aosta itself—a lively university town, with a year-round population of 33,000, and a rich cycling culture. Fun fact that we learned while visiting: Maurice Garin, winner of the first-ever Tour de France, was born in the Aosta Valley.
The few days we spent exploring by bike were enough to show that whatever kind of cycling you’re into, you could expect to find fantastic, clearly-signposted itineraries and (because this is Italy) incredible food, wine and coffee at every turn. Here, our team have listed six of the cycle routes in the Aosta Valley. But this list is just the start.
Road cycling in the Aosta Valley
Aosta – Great St Bernard Pass
Distance: 35km
Difference in level: 1,883m
Difficulty: Tough
Recommended period: May-October
This 35km excursion, with 1,883m of elevation, is definitely a hard climb by bike but with views that more than repay the effort. Starting from Aosta the route takes riders through several villages including Gignod, which features a picturesque church with a Gothic entrance, the mediaeval village of Étroubles, and, a few kilometres on, Saint-Oyen, a small village with traditional Aosta Valley style houses.
Just a few metres across the Pass, on the Swiss side, stands the famous hospice where they bred St Bernard dogs. After the tunnel, the road climbs into a high mountain environment and is less busy. You can find refreshment at the pass and along the route with various fountains.
Trivia: The Celts, the Romans and, from the Middle Ages, pilgrims travelling the Via Francigena pilgrimage route to Rome passed through this Alpine pass. The most famous crossing, however, was that made by Napoleon (not a pilgrim!).
Aymavilles – Lillaz (Cogne)
Distance: 23.1km
Difference in level: 970m
Difficulty: Quite hard
Recommended period: June-September
A chance to discover the beautiful Val de Cogne, part of the protected area of the Gran Paradiso National Park. The start at Aymavilles is at the entrance to the valley and is famed for its vine-growing. The 23km climb heads out towards Cogne, which is considered the capital of the Gran Paradiso.
Cogne used to be an important mining centre and can boast a rich past in terms of history, culture and traditions. The old mining village is home to the National Park Visitors’ Centre. The route, with 970m difference in height, will take experienced riders about 75mins, and finishes in the hamlet of Lillaz where you can admire the beautiful waterfalls with its three cascades descending over 150m.
Trivia: This route was included in a stage of the Giro d’Italia in 1985. The toughest section is near the start, then it becomes much more do-able.
Brusson - Saint-Jacques - Antagnod – Brusson
Distance: 30.7km
Difference in level: 498m
Difficulty: Moderate
Recommended period: June-October
A partly circular 31km route to discover the Val d'Ayas which starts and ends in Brusson and culminates at 1,670m above sea level in Saint-Jacques. Among the resorts ticked off will be names familiar to many winter visitors to the Monterosa ski area, including Champoluc and Antagnod. The height difference here is a mere 500m but with plenty of gentle descending as well as some steady climbing, riders can look forward to a pleasant couple of hours in the saddle.
Trivia: Champoluc is the main resort in the Monterosa ski area, with 180km of runs and some much-loved off-piste.
Mountain Biking in the Aosta Valley
Grand tour of the Cime Bianche upper hill
Distance: 18km
Difference in level: 980m
Difficulty: Difficult
Recommended period: June - October
Explore the landscape around Breuil-Cervinia on this 18km technical route, graded difficult, on a mix of mixed asphalt, dirt track and cycle path. Starting at the Breuil cable car, you go uphill along a dirt road enjoying a sequence of steep but always do-able ascents which bring you close to the artificial lake of Goillet before arriving at Cime Bianche Laghi, at 2,831m.
Continue up the dirt road towards the Cime Bianche hill. At 200m above the cable car station, you can look out over the Rollin basin and the Gran Lago. On reaching the summit, the long descent to the mountain station of the Salette Du Col cable car begins, which includes an uphill section where you carry your bike, before the final descent towards the former bobsleigh slope in Cervinia.
Trivia: You can also take the cable car for the stretch to Cime Bianche Laghi if you don’t fancy the first part of this climb.
In Gran Paradiso Park... Valnontey
Distance: 12km
Difference in level: 200m
Difficulty: Not very
Recommended period: May - October
A fairly easy 12km out and back route with stunning views of the Gran Paradiso. You start from Cogne and head steadily uphill, on mostly unpaved footpaths, towards Valnontey.
Shortly after the village you pass three tiny hamlets to reach the high point at the Vermiana mountain pasture (1,731m), before starting the descent back to Cogne. You're advised to cycle at walking pace along the trails, through the S. Orso meadows and on the Cogne-Champong lower footpath as these routes are used by families with pushchairs, the disabled and the elderly.
Trivia: As well as being renowned for its stunning alpine scenery, Gran Paradiso Park is also famous for its wildlife, and is home to abundant ibex, chamois, and bearded vultures.
Invergneux pass
Distance: 33km
Difference in level: 1,374m
Difficulty: Hard
Recommended period: June - October
The jewel in Cogne Valley’s crown for MTB lovers. This 33km route out and back from Lillaz is both physically and technically difficult. One particular section, just after the crossroads for Invergneux pass, is especially tough: more experienced bikers will be able to pedal for certain sections, everyone else will be carrying their bikes!
Also, coming down, the trail includes two options towards the village of Gimillan: the first one is easier, passing through Révèntì, the second one from the pass to the Pila mountain pasture is more technically difficult and is only recommended for advanced bikers with suitable gear.
Trivia: A couple of kilometres outside Lillaz are the Lillaz waterfalls, a series of three stunning cascades that are a huge draw for visitors to the area. The third waterfall is the most spectacular due to the rock ledges that have created it.
Want to find out more about cycling holidays in the Aosta Valley? Go to aosta-valley.co.uk
