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The Aosta Valley is the most mountainous part of Italy—home to the highest peaks in the country, and indeed, in Europe. Monte Bianco (aka Mont Blanc) borders the region on the western side, to the north there’s Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), slightly east of that is the Monte Rosa massif, and to the south there’s Gran Paradiso—all of them well over 4,000m.
From the valley floor at around 500m to the flanks of these giants, via the 600+ lesser peaks that make up the region, the entire area is simply covered with walking trails. There are trails that wind between verdant vineyards, trails that climb through conifer forests, trails that involve scrabbling over barren scree fields, and of course—for the truly hardcore hikers—high altitude trails that traverse glaciers.
On a recent visit, we were wowed by the variety of the terrain—criss-crossed by rivers and punctuated by postcard pretty alpine lakes. The Gran Paradiso National Park alone is home to more than 180 of them. All of the trails here are well signposted, and clear maps and apps help you navigate with ease.
Perhaps the area’s secret weapon is the town of Aosta itself, a lively university city, with a year-round population of 33,000 and a real vibe to it. Known as “little Rome” because of the large number of well-preserved, ancient buildings, it’s the perfect place to appreciate the local culture—and of course, the local food and wine, which we made sure to indulge in, wherever possible.
Whatever kind of walker you are, you’ll find something to suit you in the Aosta Valley. Here, the team pick six of the best trails.
Alta Via Trail 1
Distance: 117.5 miles
Duration: 14-17 days
Difficulty: Challenging
Alta Via Trail 1, known as the ‘The Giants’ Trail’, is a multi-day trekking route through incomparable mountain scenery, across the foothills of some of the highest peaks in Europe such as Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. Extending from Donnas to Courmayeur on the Italian/French border, the route through the mountains to the left of the River Dora Baltea, has 17 daily stages, each with about 3-5 hours walking time, with stop-offs for all needs: camping sites, mountain huts, refuges, hotels and hostels. The route first heads east, before turning north and then west, eventually dropping down into Courmayeur with stunning views of Mont Blanc.
An ideal summer route, it crosses medium and high-altitude mountain areas, passing through wildflower meadows and pasturelands, woodlands and rocky outcrops, at an average altitude of around 2,000m, often reaching almost 3,000m. The route also offers superb examples of rural architecture such as the traditional Walser buildings in the Gressoney Valley and the upper reaches of the Ayas Valley.
Alta Via Trail 1 can be walked by anyone since it follows well-marked and fully signposted footpaths. Experienced mountain walkers will be able to walk its whole length, while less-experienced or casual hikers may prefer to walk the short, lower altitude stretches.
An alternative route - Alta Via Trail 2 - known as ‘the Nature Trail’, is a shorter 14-day trek on the right bank of the Dora Baltea, passing mostly through the Gran Paradiso National Park and the Mont Avic Regional Park, wild areas of magnificent landscapes where numerous examples of alpine flora and fauna are to be found, including some of the rarest species.
Highlight: The scenery really is epic, with almost constant views of some of Europe’s highest peaks. Sweeping panoramas of inaccessible snow-covered peaks will impress even the most seasoned hiker.
Cammino Balteo
Distance: 220 miles
Duration: 23 days
Difficulty: Hard
One for serious adventurers. A multi-stage circular hiking trail of just under 220 miles that crosses the entire Aosta Valley. From Pont-Saint-Martin to Morgex, return, there are a total of 23 stages from 4–6 hours each, passing through 46 towns, with almost the entire route located in medium mountains ranging from 500m and 1,900m in altitude, therefore making the route accessible throughout the year.
And you can, of course, dip in and out of the route to do sections, if you don’t have the time – or the legs – to go the distance.
While it's a glorious immersion in nature - lakes, waterfalls, nature reserves and wooded areas - the Cammino Balteo is so much more than a nature hike, it's a journey through time, dating back to Roman and medieval times. Explore the architecture of the villages and discover vibrant local traditions. There are options to visit castles, or taste local products along the way.
Highlight: The castles are a huge crowd-pleaser, such as the Castle of Aymavilles on the road to Cogne (stage 18). Recently re-opened to the public after a long renovation, it dates back to 1207 but has been extensively transformed over the centuries and now resembles a noble residence rather than a fortress. In contrast, the imposing 19th century Fort of Bard (stage 23) looks every inch the defensive bulwark.
Via Francigena
Distance: 89.2 miles
Duration: 5 days
Difficulty: Hard
Part of an ancient pilgrimage route stretching from Canterbury to Rome, the Via Francigena is one of the most historic walking routes in Europe. Hiking the Via Francigena as it passes south through the Aosta Valley means taking a journey through ancient villages and past historic castles, impressive churches and important reminders of the Roman era, all against the backdrop of the Alps. You will also find vineyards creating prestigious wines, and areas renowned for local produce such as prosciutto di Bosses ham and lardo di Arnad.
The Aosta section is divided into five stages starting at the Swiss side of the Great Saint-Bernard pass, proceeding down along the Great Saint-Bernard valley towards Aosta, the region’s capital and a city steeped in Roman history, before moving on along the central valley to Pont-Saint-Martin where you leave the Aosta Valley to enter the Piedmont region. Be prepared for some steep climbs and descents and some stretches alongside busy roads.
Stage no. 1 is best attempted in summer when snow is likely to be absent at the pass, but the central valley stages are suitable for every season, even for a 2 or 3-day discovery trek.
Highlight: For a stopover with a difference stay overnight at the Franciscan monastery of Châtillon, the Convento Francescani Cappuccini. However, for many walkers the highlight of the hike will be Aosta itself. As well as visiting the extensive Roman ruins, such as the Praetorian Gates, the Theatre, and the Arch of Augustus, you can admire other incredible buildings, of which the most important is undoubtedly the Cathedral, dating back to the late Gothic period.
Tour du Mont Blanc
Distance: 105 miles
Duration: 12 days
Difficulty: Hard
A spectacular multi-day, long-distance, cross-borders hike that circumnavigates the stunning Mont Blanc massif landscapes of France, Italy, and Switzerland, including dramatic severe rocky walls, overhanging glaciers, gravelly moraines, meadows and grasslands. Although the full itinerary involves roughly 12 days walking, you can use public transport and cable routes to speed up and shorten your trek. Also, there are numerous variants and refuges along the route, which allows you to totally customise your tour.
The route enters Aosta Valley from the La Seigne pass and proceeds into the upper Val Vény, one of the most popular tourist spots in the Mont Blanc area. It reaches up to the Elisabetta mountain hut, from where it descends to Lac Combal, before climbing again to the mountain pastures of Arp Vieille, before another descent as far as Courmayeur. The Val Ferret, a popular cross-country ski destination in winter is another highlight, as are views of dramatic peaks such as the Giant’s Tooth, the Grandes Jorasses and Mont Dolent.
The route heads towards the Grand Ferret pass, as far as the Swiss border. In Switzerland, the route touches the districts of La Fouly and Champex and then enters France from Col de la Balme; it passes near Chamonix and Les Houches and lastly, it crosses the Croix pass and the La Seigne pass before coming back into Aosta Valley.
Highlight: Undoubtedly, the dramatic mountain scenery of the Mont Blanc massif will linger long in the memory, including iconic glacial peaks like the Aiguille de Bionnassay, the scenic high mountain passes of Col de la Seigne and Grand Ferret, and charming mountain towns like Courmayeur. But a simple pleasure may also be found in chatting to other trekkers at the various rifugios along the way.
Tour of the Matterhorn
Distance: 93 miles
Duration: 8-10 days
Difficulty: Challenging
A high-altitude circular trek through 6 valleys and 3 cultures (the German-speaking Upper Valais, the French-speaking Central Valais, and the Italian Valle d'Aosta).
It’s a route with significant elevation gain and loss and a succession of steep ascents and descents across a variety of Alpine terrain as you admire the iconic Matterhorn from all angles. It features stunning mountain views and a glimpse into the distinct regions of Mattertal and Aosta Valley.
The route runs alongside more than 25 peaks, crosses numerous mountain pastures, among intact fauna and flora, and visits several traditional villages. In the Aosta Valley section it passes through the valleys of Valpelline and Valtournenche, while landmark Italian locations include Lago Place Moulin, Tola, Torrente Marmore, and ultimately Breuil/Cervinia, the companion town to Zermatt.
Highlight: With so much panoramic mountain scenery, it’s hard to look beyond the pointy peak itself, but what also stands out is the sheer variety of landscape you encounter en route, from high mountain paths, deep green valleys, lush alpine meadows, glaciers, and shimmering turquoise mountain lakes that reflect the surrounding peaks. The trek also passes through charming mountain villages and medieval hamlets, providing a glimpse into the local culture.
Tour of Monte Rosa
Distance: 103 miles
Duration: 7-10 days
Difficulty: Challenging
The Monte Rosa tour is another testing, multi-day high-altitude hike, this time circling the Monte Rosa massif in the Swiss and Italian Alps. It offers views of many 4,000m peaks, including the Matterhorn.
This legendary 103-mile trek crosses numerous mountain passes and takes 7-10 days to complete, though a shorter version can be done in 8-9 days. Generally considered a tougher challenge than the Tour du Mont Blanc, the Tour of Monte Rosa is best suited for experienced hikers due to its sustained effort at altitude, which in some sections exceeds 3,000m, high passes, and technical sections. As well, some variants require glacier skills and experience.
In Italian territory, the route passes through the valleys of Gressoney, Ayas and Valtournenche, taking in through several Walser settlements.
Highlight: A visit to the famous Regina Margherita Hut. Situated on Punta Gnifetti at a height of 4,556m on the Mont Rosa massif, not only is it the highest rifugio in Europe, it’s the highest building in Europe. It is clearly visible from the valley and catches the eye of all who look up towards the peaks.
It sleeps 70 people in rooms with double beds and has a bar restaurant, communal bathrooms, electric lighting, 220V electric current, internet access and a library. It is also home to a scientific community conducting high-altitude research.
For more information about walking holidays in the Aosta Valley, go to aosta-valley.co.uk
