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- Written by: Amy Marwick
I follow my guide, Beat, across a steep, grassy slope, brushing through wildflowers and the odd tangle of undergrowth. He moves with easy, mountain-goat confidence, nudging aside fallen branches like he's done it a thousand times.
There’s no sign of a trail, but he seems unfazed, and I’m curious enough to keep going. We pause at a small clearing where a scatter of bones lies bleached in the sun. “Was that your last client?” I quip. A curved horn still clings to the skull - unmistakeably ibex. Beat raises an eyebrow, then cracks a small smile before continuing on, calmly clearing the path with a saw he’s somehow produced from his pack.
Eventually, we reach the foot of a sandy cliff. I’m a little sweaty, slightly bewildered, but very much along for the ride. Beat silently pulls out harnesses and starts flaking a rope onto the ground. The evening air hums with the scent of pine and alpine herbs, birds calling from the shadows. Then he speaks, casually reading from a weathered note.
“This is the Hunter’s Trail. In the past, people used to travel this route - with animals, no protection, and heavy packs.” He glances up. “There were a few accidents,” he says with a shrug, then gives me a sideways grin. “But not today.”
The glint in his eye says: trust me, you’re going to love this. And just like that, the soft clink of quickdraws marks the start of our journey along a little-known via ferrata above Saas-Balen.
Saas-Fee/Saastal in Summer: A Quieter Kind of High
I’m in the Saas Valley, in the heart of Switzerland’s Valais region. It’s mid-June, and the temperatures have recently spiked - just in time for three days of hiking, biking, and via ferrata across the four main villages: Saas-Balen, Saas-Grund, Saas-Almagell, and Saas-Fee. The latter, the best known, is a winter hub for high-altitude snowsports. But in summer, the town transforms into something quieter and greener, brimming with unexplored adventure.
Saas-Fee itself sits at 1,800m, ringed by snowcapped giants. The Dom - Switzerland’s highest mountain that sits entirely within the country’s borders - towers above it at 4,545m. From the charming, car-free village, you can clearly see the layers of elevation: lush meadows, rocky flanks, the jaws of the glacier, and the pristine white peaks above. In summer, the glacier attracts ski racers and freestyle teams, while the valley is home to a treasure trove of hiking and biking trails that wind their way straight up into the high alpine.
Switchbacks and Singletrack: The Saas Valley by e-Bike
I kick things off with an e-bike adventure. After picking up my ride from the friendly Sessaasfee bike shop, I roll through the forest, then follow the roaring river downstream to Saas-Balen. From there, a quiet road climbs steadily past thunderous waterfalls as the snowline retreats higher. The e-bike’s boost is welcome on the tight switchbacks, which lead to a forest trail and a grin-inducing singletrack descent to Saas-Grund.
The local bike scene has grown slowly over the last decade, with Kreuzboden/Hohsaas above Saas-Grund as the main hub, full of fun, flowy downhill track and a technical high-alpine route in the works. My e-bike is better suited to the gravel tracks that follow the valley or climb to the Mattmark Dam - the largest earth dam in Europe, powering the entire valley sustainably.
After a hot 40km in the saddle, I return my bike and catch a lovely moment: a local boy beaming as he collects his dream bike, squeezing in a quick spin before football training. It’s a reminder that Saas-Fee isn’t just a resort or a destination; it’s a genuine working village with a strong community. The car-free streets add to its relaxed, family-friendly feel. Zermatt may understandably grab the spotlight, yet Saas-Fee offers a quieter charm - more chamois, fewer chi-chi poodles.
Clip in and Swig on: Round Two on the Hunter’s Trail
I spend the evening back on the Hunter’s Trail (Jägerweg) with Beat. Though he’s summited Kilimanjaro over 50 times, he expects to spend most of his summer on this quiet route above Saas-Grund. “I take families and little kids up here,” he says, though I can’t tell if it’s meant to reassure me or speed me up.
This via ferrata doesn’t feature the usual rungs and ladders - just bolts to clip into. At one point, Beat rummages around in the rocks and triumphantly produces a bottle of Genepi. “For courage!” he grins. A quick swig each, and it’s back to business. The route isn’t hugely technical, but it demands focus, especially moving roped together.
As the sun descends, the cliffs light up with glorious alpenglow. After a couple of intense hours, we’re back at the car which we left on a random quiet switchback. This is one of those awesome adventures that only ever happens when you have a local by your side.
Ibex and Ice: The Mighty Fee Glacier
The next day, I switch to foot power and hit the trails. First up: the Ibex Trail. A swift gondola ride on the Hannig lift out of Saas-Fee whisks me up to 2,300m, where the trail climbs through alpine scrub and scree to a spectacular viewpoint across to the Fee Glacier.
With the ancient ice groaning below and jagged peaks crowding the skyline, it’s tempting to think “Fee” refers to fairies - it is the German word for them, after all. But the real origin is more pastoral than mythical. “Saas” likely comes from the Latin saxum (rock), while “Fee” stems from the Rhaeto-Romanic or Old High German fehe or veia, meaning alpine pasture. Saas-Fee is, quite literally, the “summer pasture of Saas.”
Then comes the clatter of hooves - a group of ibex picks their way across a snowfield. I watch for a while, transfixed at their speed and progression over the technical terrain. Inspired and oh-so- happy, I ride the high all the way back down the 900m descent to town, finishing off the day with an Aperol as the sun dips behind a jagged skyline.
The Saas Valley Sweet Spot: Big Feels, Zero Fuss
My final day brings a fittingly epic send-off: sun shining, massive views, and a night in a mountain hut. A punctual (naturally) bus to Saas-Grund and a gondola to Hohsaas launches me into an otherworldly landscape of scree and snow at a gasping 3,200m. The 4000s Trail connects 18 of the valley’s big-name peaks, with cairns and plaques offering stats and stories. I wander from summit to summit, soaking it all in.
From there, I drop down to Almagelleralp mountain hut. Not to be confused with the higher, more rugged Almageller Hut (the mountaineer’s basecamp), this one’s a gentler affair: grassy, peaceful, and surrounded by marmots. Powered by a carb-heavy plate of cheesy rösti, I tackle the final trail in the afternoon heat.
Dipping energy levels are given an unexpected and much-needed boost. A bark. A blur of fur. A scruffy farm dog appears, sizes me up then flops over for belly rubs, then is joined by five bounding puppies. I linger longer than planned, torn between cuddles and the promise of dinner.
That evening, on the terrace with just three other fellow hikers and two cheerful wardens, we play Uno, watch the marmots playing, and drink in the peace. There’s nothing quite like that night in a mountain hut magic: cut off yet at home, energised yet at peace. Like nothing else exists. Utopia.
The next morning, after a simple breakfast, I drop down to Saas-Almagell to catch the bus to Visp. And that’s when it strikes me: this is what makes the Saas Valley special. It balances drama with ease, hitting that sweet spot between wild and welcoming oh so beautifully. You’re never far from wild terrain, but it’s all so accessible - whether by gondola, e-bike, or on foot. It’s quiet yet inspiring, wonderfully underrated, and utterly beautiful.
A place where you can feel tiny among giants - and still be back in time for glass of local wine. Winning.
